Medieval Inscribed Bronze Purse Bar

Comprising a D-section hoop with the shoulders formed as stylised beast-heads, a discoid bezel with fleur-de-lys. 5.01 grams, 22.48 mm overall, 18.86 mm internal diameter (approximate size British Q 1/2, USA 8 1/4, Europe 18.12, Japan 17)



Found UK. Acquired on the UK and EU art market before 2000. From the private collection of a Surrey, UK, gentleman.

A circular bezel with a stylised flower decoration is soldered onto a thin ribbon-shaped link, which is flat on the inside and has two grooves on the outside. The style of the bezel decoration is Western Medieval, although the ring’s style finds parallels in specimens of Eastern Europe.

Domed-section hoop with D-section tongue. 2.31 grams, 26.2 mm



Acquired from Essex Coin Auctions, Essex, UK. Ex Buckinghamshire, UK, collection.

Niello plaque depicting the marriage ceremony between Mary and Joseph, set in a gilt brass mount with a rope twist border, four loops for attachment. 10.8 grams, 46 mm



Private collection, Europe. Acquired on the Belgian art market.

Niello is a black mixture, usually of sulphur, copper, silver and lead. It is used as an inlay on engraved or etched metal, especially silver. It is added as a powder or paste, then fired until it melts or at least softens and flows or is pushed into the engraved lines in the metal. Men began wearing hat ornaments on their caps from the late fifteenth century, which could be either purely decorative or symbolic. Symbolic examples are traditionally known as enseignes, as they conveyed the wearer’s personal intent or a visible message. These jewels trace their origins to the medieval pilgrim badge, usually mass-produced in base metal. It is believed that this fashion shift to a stylish male accessory began when French king Charles VIII entered Naples in February 1495, wearing a gold circular jewel on his cap, while his men had similar, though not gold, jewels on their caps or sleeves. Italians quickly adopted this trend, which then spread to most European courts. However, this fashion declined in the late sixteenth to early seventeenth century, giving way to the popularity of aigrettes.