Medieval and Later Buckle Collection

Niello plaque depicting the marriage ceremony between Mary and Joseph, set in a gilt brass mount with a rope twist border, four loops for attachment. 10.8 grams, 46 mm



Private collection, Europe. Acquired on the Belgian art market.

Niello is a black mixture, usually of sulphur, copper, silver and lead. It is used as an inlay on engraved or etched metal, especially silver. It is added as a powder or paste, then fired until it melts or at least softens and flows or is pushed into the engraved lines in the metal. Men began wearing hat ornaments on their caps from the late fifteenth century, which could be either purely decorative or symbolic. Symbolic examples are traditionally known as enseignes, as they conveyed the wearer’s personal intent or a visible message. These jewels trace their origins to the medieval pilgrim badge, usually mass-produced in base metal. It is believed that this fashion shift to a stylish male accessory began when French king Charles VIII entered Naples in February 1495, wearing a gold circular jewel on his cap, while his men had similar, though not gold, jewels on their caps or sleeves. Italians quickly adopted this trend, which then spread to most European courts. However, this fashion declined in the late sixteenth to early seventeenth century, giving way to the popularity of aigrettes.

Annular type with serpent or dragon modelled in the lower segment and legend in Lombardic capitals 'AMIE GEI' with the second word abbreviated for 'GEINT(E)'. 1.13 grams, 11 mm



From a UK private collection since the 1970s.

'Amie geint(e)' means ‘beautiful lover (fem.)’, or ‘noble lover’ (gei as a spelling for gai, which, if permissible, would yield an unabbreviated inscription meaning ‘happy/cheerful beloved’, has not been noted – there are no spellings with -e- recorded).

Chessman-type seal with clasped hands to the tondo, border with 'PRIVE SV' (I am private) legend. 5.96 grams, 17 mm



From the collection of a late Gloucestershire, UK, collector.