Bactrian Style Lapis Lazuli Bead Necklace

A gold ring composed of a slender hoop, expanding shoulders decorated with white enamelled foliage and black enamelled pea-pod ornament, repeated around the bezel, bezel with box setting holding a table-cut ruby, white and black enamelled floral design to the underside; minor loss of enamel; likely from France; accompanied by a 'Les Enluminures' hinged presentation box. 4.57 grams, 23.32 mm overall, 18.77 mm internal diameter (approximate size British O, USA 7, Europe 14.98, Japan 14)



Acquired from Les Enluminures Ltd, Illinois, USA, 2016. Property of an East Sussex collector. Accompanied by a Les Enluminures certificate of authenticity. Accompanied by a copy of the Les Enluminures invoice. This lot has been checked against the Interpol Database of stolen works of art and is accompanied by search certificate no.11671-197579.

Over the centuries, the ruby became a symbol of the amorous heart and a popular gemstone for betrothal or wedding rings in Western Europe. This gemstone was believed to symbolise the virtues of marriage and convey the desire for eternal matrimonial love. The ruby-red colour was often enhanced by setting the stone on top of a foil. The stones themselves were imported from as far afield as Thailand, Burma and Sri Lanka. Old inventories record them as 'balas rubies', which were sourced to decorate royal crowns. In the 17th century, the red colour was set-off by the pastel shades of satin which were fashionable in dress at the court of King Louis VIII, where the art of enamelling was also practiced.

A mixed group of archaistic items including a lapis lazuli cylinder seal, glazed composition scarab in white metal setting and other items. 507 grams total, 27-85mm



Acquired 1990s. Ex French collection.

A substantial gold signet ring composed of a lentoid-section hoop, expanding capital style shaped shoulders and irregular octagonal bezel engraved with a skull, two flowers below separating the reversed initials in capitals: 'CL', framed by a beaded border. 15.65 grams, 27.14 mm overall, 22.68 mm internal diameter (approximate size British X, USA 11 1/2, Europe 26.29, Japan 25)



Acquired in the 1980s. Property of a London gentleman. This lot has been checked against the Interpol Database of stolen works of art and is accompanied by search certificate no.11664-197587.

Signet rings were jewellery items serving practical functions, and were pressed into hot wax to seal letters and packets. Personal seals or secreta acted as a legal safeguard, since they were used to witness wills, loans, commercial, personal and other documents. Such rings were often engraved with a coat of arms, initials, merchant's mark or some other personal symbol. Painted portraits of this period portray the wearer with the signet ring on the thumb or forefinger, allowing for practical use. Skulls on rings were potent symbols of mortality. 'Memento mori' or 'remember that you must die' imagery served as a reminder to the Christian of the need to keep their soul in good order for the final judgment.